Sunday, May 29, 2011


May 29, 2011 Pointe a’ Pitre to the Island of Dominica
Getting underway at 9:15 AM, after trying unsuccessfully since 7:00 AM to check out and get the marina folks to untie our mooring ball (impossible for us to do on board), we cruised to Dominica in rolling seas, riding that bouncing horse all day, up and down.  As we neared Dominica the winds picked up to about 25 - 30 knots, white caps abounded and our ride got rougher.  We figure the change is from the winds coming down off the mountains of Dominica.  Once on the lee side, the seas flattened out and winds stopped. 

Dominica - Prince Rupert Bay
In no time we arrived at Prince Rupert Bay, a well protected cove with a small town, Portsmouth on Dominica.
We have now arrived in the ‘land of the boat boys’ from here on down the island chain.  These boat boys range from the true professional guide/helper to the crack addict trying to rip you off.  Many are simply like a swarm of flies - brushing them off can be difficult but with persistence, one CAN get rid of them.  We’ve been told by boaters to simply tell the boat boys that approach that you have arrangements already with “XXX”.  The cruising guides have good information as to who is good, so just pick a name off a page and take it from there.  There is some honor among thieves, so the boat boys will respect that and leave. 

Quickly hailing “Martin” (a/k/a Providence via VHF 16) as we watched a small boat approach us from two miles out of the cove - an aggressive boat boy, we hoped for the best.  This guy told us he "didn’t think Martin was around", that he “very good boat boy”.  Not wanting to get mixed up with an ‘unknown’, we told him we would go on into the cove to find Martin.  He left us.  Ah ha!  Martin met us in the cove, helped us tie to a mooring (the guide book says the holding here is ‘variable’) he deemed appropriate for our 43 ton boat and gave us a quick over view of services available.  We promised to contact him on the return trip in the winter for all the sightseeing he could provide.   At least here on Dominica, the boat boys are organized; provide security at night in the cove; provide very professional, knowledgeable guide services and organize weekly BBQs on the beach for locals and boaters to raise funds for their organization. 

We didn’t clear in - just flew the yellow Q flag as we are departing early in the  AM for a long cruise to St. Lucia.  Ah, another island to add to the Must See list on our return after hurricane season.  Dominica is an independent island - was formerly last British - and I think the most lush and beautiful we’ve seen thus far....a naturalist’s paradise.  Andy says I say that at every island and he repeated his mantra - “Same shit, different island”.  I could smack him! 

Sun setting over Dominca

Beautiful Dominica
This island seems to be the ultimate ‘nature island’ with lush vegetation, mountains touching the sea; a boiling lake, hot waterfalls, sulfur springs & rivers and lakes, much of which is within a national park.  There are seven potentially active volcanos here (vs only one volcano on the other islands) as well as an undersea fault - which actually created an earthquake a few years ago throughout some of these islands.   I can’t wait to come back to tour it all!

In no time, after hooking up to the mooring ball, Andy & I were over the side of the boat, swimming around to cool off.  I could see my toenail polish the water is so clear.  Later, in the afternoon, we purchased for $4 two bunches of bananas from a boat boy selling from his boat.  One batch was red - he told me they were organic.  I don’t think so - everything in these islands is ‘organic’ as the locals probably don’t have the money for pesticides, etc.  Organic does’t make things change color - does it?  At any rate, so tasty, bursting with flavor.  The red ones were very sweet and the small yellow ones had a bit of a tart taste mixed with the sweet.  LOVE the fruits and vegetables grown locally and picked fresh!
Catamaran BEFORE dragging

Looking up and out the saloon window, I had a heart stopping moment.  A huge catamaran was nearly on us - appearing just about 5 yards off our bow.  Racing to the bow, screeching for Andy, the cat had clearly dragged its anchor and no one was aboard.  Watching carefully and preparing to untie our lines so we could back off, I realized the cat was no longer moving.  Its anchor had grabbed & reset, just off us.  Keeping a wary close eye on the cat, I prepared dinner.  Finally, the owners returned, surveyed the situation, said nothing to us, but did pull up and away, anchoring far from everyone in the cove.  A bullet dodged!

Wednesday, May 25, 2011

Guadaloupe - Pigeon Island & Pointe a' Pitre

May 25, 2011 Wednesday    Montserrat to Pigeon Island, Guadaloupe

Perfect cruising weather for a trawler - no wind and flat seas.  The sailor friends we have met along the way are cursing..... not their kind of weather!  This weather is unusual we’re told and we are taking advantage of it, stopping in places that would be difficult or impossible to stop in on our return during the winter months with much rougher seas and the howling Christmas winds.

We were so thrilled to be able to cruise along the south side of Montserrat rather than having to traverse up and around the north side toward Guadeloupe.  With no wind and no waves  and no ash blowing from the volcano, it was safe to make the run past it.

Montserrat in our 'rear view mirror'

So awesome is Montserrat

The view from this side is again a reminder of how power mother nature can be - vast swatches of earth that slid down into the sea and a clear view of the huge volcanic crater atop the mountain. 
Look at that power and it is only steam vents (at the moment)

Whale feeding at the surface
Three hours into our 6 - 7 hour cruise to Pigeon Island on Guadaloupe,  I saw what I swore was a the tail of a whale!  I only saw the tail once, but both Andy and I could see the whale blowing and it’s long body  as the whale cruised about, slowly feeding near the surface.    How excited we were...we have been looking for these large sea creatures for two years while in/out of the Atlantic and in the Lower Passage of British Columbia, nearly to Alaska and all along the way...always with no sightings.

Pigeon Island - both of these
Arriving at tiny Pigeon Island, just off Guadaloupe, (not to be confused with the Pigeon Island off the northern tip of St. Lucia) we hooked to a white mooring ball on what is the Jacque Cousteau Underwater Park. butted right up to the rocks.  Ah, I can just fall off the boat into the water teeming with fish and corals and not have to bug Andy to take me out somewhere in the dink.  We (Yes, WE - Andy actually snorkeled!)  were in the water 5 minutes after securing the boat - and were surrounded instantly by at least 50 beautiful fish!  Staying in the water exploring after Andy returned to the boat, I spied a turtle swimming below me near a wall, spotted an octopus that I watched slink along the ocean floor for several minutes before I lost sight of him among the rocks.  I  swam over some softly swaying corals and lots of brain coral, barrel corals and so many others that I can’t remember all the names.  Colorful fish were everywhere, ignoring me completely.  I love to be in the underwater parks - a No Take, No Fish zone.  The fish are not fearful and ignore you, swimming about doing their thing while people snorkel or dive all around them.  Usually, much of the underwater world takes off when they see you.

Suddenly I was startled by a loud honking of a horn as I neared Finally Fun.  A tour boat was yelling at Andy that he was moored to ‘their’ mooring and we had to move.  Well, we had two guide books aboard that said private yachts were to moor to (a) the white one and (b) the red ones.  We’d been confused by the conflicting information and never saw a red one, so grabbed the white.  Nope, seems we were to grab a YELLOW one, of which there were only two.  Scrambling back on board, I unhooked us as fast as I could and we pulled out.  Andy suddenly pointed at the water and said WHAT IS THAT?  Bubbles everywhere, like a giant something was in the water.  Realization hit - ANDY, get away from here - those are SCUBA DIVERS in the water!  Scary moments - we passed near them and I hoped they were WELL BELOW.   People chum won’t do it for anyone! 

Circling Pigeon Island
Confused about the mooring balls, we circled the tiny island again, looking for a better spot to snag that Finally Fun would fit in and not swing into the rocky island, as the mooring balls are almost on the island in places it seems.  Andy yelled to a couple in a dingy,  “DO YOU SPEAK ENGLISH?”    Yes, was the reply.  They proceeded to tell us yellow was the correct color -- this year.  Back around we went, carefully avoiding several big circular bubble patches on the surface indicating divers below, easily hooking up to a yellow ball and settling in. 

In a few minutes, here comes that English speaking couple in their dink -- “HELLO!   Are you hooked up OK?”  We met Krista & Bill Nugent, from a small town in Canada, just north of Maine,  who have been cruising these islands for 4 years now aboard their 58‘ sailboat, Secoudon.  What do boaters always do? “Hi, come aboard, the wine is chilled and the beer is cold!”   After introductions and cold beer, back intp the Caribbean Sea we flopped...snorkeling all about until we had seen it all - with Andy watching from the deck.  He so wishes he’d purchased that T-shirt he saw in St. Martin.....”Same s h i t , different island”.
Andy photo shopped OUT the middle finger for the sensitive types
He feels the same way about snorkeling....seen one fish, seen them all.  Bah.   


Deciding to go back around to the other side of the island where Krista and Bill had snorkeled earlier in the day, we hopped into their dink, snorkeling till nearly dark.  (NOT Andy!)

The south side of Pigeon Island is the best for snorkeling, with more coral, crevices and a little more color than the north side where we are moored.  

A Squid!!
Sitting on the aft deck of Finally Fun  hoping to see the rare green flash as the sun sets (which we did not see), sipping wine and beer and eating cheese and crackers with Krista and Bill, I suddenly popped out of my chair like a rocket had been launched under my butt....AHHHHH, I screeched!  Andy nearly choked, inhaling his beer, so startled was he!  A whale, breaching off our port side about 1/2 mile off!   This whale breached at least six times, jumping clear up and out, parallel to the water.  Then, a giant belly flop back into the water!  We were so excited!   We watched her till we could see no more in the dusk of the sea and sky.   Awesome!   Finally, after all these years, I have seen a whale in all its glory!  Breathtaking! 

Krista & Sharon
I tell you what -- you meet your soul mate sister sometimes in your lifetime.  Who else in this world dives or snorkels with PINK FINS?  Just me and Just Krista!!   Who else will snorkel all day til dark?  Me and Krista.  Who said in unison “ Quick, get in the dink - let’s get close to the whale!”  Me and Krista.  (The guys promptly shouted NO)   Who else shares the same philosophy of life?   BFF’s as the kids say now.  
Thursday, May 26, 2011
Bill and Krista were such a wealth of information about places to go and things to see, given their four years of cruising these islands.  I so hope Andy will ‘get into this’ more and agreed to stay longer.  I could stay down in these islands forever....take this morning for example:   Up at 5:00 am, I watched the sun come up over the mountains from our aft deck, sipping coffee, as I listened to the sound of birds from the tiny island beginning to chirp.  I watched fish feeding all around me - slapping fins on the water to alert me to their presence.  A huge turtle swam past, sticking his big head up several times and also sticking his big shell of a body up and out so I could see him more clearly.  Eventually, tiny birds flew past, landing on our dink up top to rest.   I left them alone, happily exchanging their bird poop for their tiny chirps as I sat below them on the deck listening and watching the water.  Now, after a morning like this - Why Would Any One Want to Retire to a House with the SAME View Every Day?

We’ve changed our plans again..actually, we really don’t have a plan - just plan the next day and review the weather and charts.  It’s now off to Point a’ Pitre with Krista & Bill - a place we had not planned to stop on our rush to get to Grenada by approximately June 1st.   This is Guadeloupe’s largest city - described as ‘lively Creole town with a hodgepodge of old and new buildings”.  We will cruise the few hours there and share a rental car to travel deeper within Guadeloupe....Never to miss an opportunity to see more, learn more and make new friends!!

May 27, 28,  2011  Friday, Saturday morning  Pointe a’ Pitre,  Guadaloupe

After a totally uneventful cruise from Pigeon Island to Pointe a‘ Pitre, we entered the huge harbor.  Knowing we were going off in a rental car and given the fact that our generator must run for some time (too much time in my book!) to repower the batteries, we wanted to be ‘free‘ of any worry about dead/dying batteries and hailed Marina Bas-du-Fort for a slip as rates are very reasonable in the islands.  In this one, power & water are included in the rate, which is a deal as electric and be VERY VERY expensive.

Ah, a new experience:  One backs in, tying stern to the dock.  The bow is hooked to a mooring ball, keeping the boat straight in the water.  A guide boat does come out to help hook the mooring ball after you’ve thrown a stern line.  Key learning:  I need longer lines in this situation..... had to quickly tie two lines together at the bow as my 100’ was not enough!  I also tied two lines together (75’ + 50’) for one of the stern lines.  Lesson learned.  I will be better prepared next time.  This method of docking seems to be the norm throughout the islands...certainly cheaper than building all those smaller docks of the main one.  A royal pain, however, to get off and on from the back of the boat!  Short legs always have a problem!

Bill & Krista
Our friends, Krista & Bill,  aboard Secoudon dropped their anchor in the harbor because it is too difficult to get off the rear of their sailboat in such a docking.  Although the cruising guide says one can anchor anywhere out there, they had a terrible time attempting to do so and finally gave it up, taking a slip next to us in the marina.   They had put out 200’ of chain (that is a lot) and kept dragging.  Seems the bottom is a couple of feet or more of pure silt.  The anchor drops in, the chain sank in that muck and nothing was holding the anchor.  It took them 30 minutes to hose off the chain as they pulled it up - solid with muck.  After 3 tries of that, they bailed. 

Note the tiny birds eating the food off the table

Would you believe - we arrived on a holiday - Friday is the anniversary of the slave emancipation and everything is closed.  Most things are closed on Saturday and always on Sunday.  Bah.  Ah well, we rented the car, driving most of the Grande Terre side of the island, along the pretty coastline.

 Stopping in Le Moule for lunch in an open air restaurant overlooking the water & big waves,  we amused ourselves watching tiny yellow birds eat off plates of food before the server could clear the tables.

Finally rousing ourselves,  we continued our travels, enjoying all that we saw.  Wandering about, we found a beach full of people, enjoying the holiday and the weather and wonderful water.  A church revival complete with baptisms in the Caribbean Sea was also underway.  A great day!
So fresh & so good @ the beach

All hand cranked

Child at the beach

Baptism at the beach - two @ a time

Church group watching the baptisms

Local restaurant along the way

Typical cemetery.  No born/died dates anywhere to be seen

Cemetery overlooking the Caribbean Sea

Back at the marina, after a long day on the road, we wandered about the little town & marina area, settling in La Pirate restaurant for dinner.  Enjoying the view from the patio, and after fondling the pirate,  we began a swift melt down in the hot humid night air. 

We’d already ordered, but Krista bravely went to the wait staff, asking if we could cancel all.  In her broken French and with much sign language, she explained that as a menopausal woman, she was DYING in the heat.  I think the poor young guy didn’t know what to do, so he ushered us all OUT.  I still chuckle every time of this of this!  

We ended up at the only air conditioned place we could find - Cote’ Jardin at the marina and had a wonderful French meal.  My lamb chops with garlic sauce were to die for & Andy’s fish platter of different types of seafood was wonderful.  We are still doing the math with the Euro vs the dollar and the liter versus the gallon.  We might be broke by now and don’t even know it!

Although we are enjoying the island, the people and everything we see, I must say the wifi is nothing short of TERRIBLE here in many places along the islands. Other times, booming in.  

I spent hours before arriving here searching for airline tickets back to FL and spent 10 hours trying to actually book the flights yesterday.  After struggling and in a raging mood, I left the marina (Andy in tow) and its off/on wifi server.  They directed us to Le Pirate where wifi is free and has a different server.  Four hours, two huge bottles of water and a salad later, I left in frustration, not knowing if the booking I’d completed on line actually went through.  The wifi seems to work from 5 AM to 7 AM, then people get on and it slows worse than using a phone line to connect and it cuts off every couple seconds or minutes.  

We had planned to pull out of here, heading south today, Saturday, but it took all day plus to get the tickets, so here we still are!  From the time I attempted to book, to the time I did finally make the reservation due to struggling with the connections, the price went up $200 per ticket and I got stuck with a flight two hours longer than my original selection.  There are few choices of airlines or flights in these islands and they fill up fast and I am booking nearly two months in advance... be forewarned!

Monday, May 23, 2011

Montserrat - Active Volcano Island

 Montserrat - the Soufriere Hills Volcano
May 23, 2011 Monday

I’ve always been intrigued by Montserrat, having read blogs by other boaters who talk about the volcanic ash covering their boat when this active volcano spews forth and how many months it took to get rid of it all from within.  We had not planned to stop, but realizing we had a perfect weather window, with perfect wind direction and no seas, we altered our plans and shorted our course. 

We passed by Redonda, a tiny rock island about one mile long and 1,000 feet high.  It has no real claim to fame - just a big rock sticking up in the Caribbean Sea.  One cannot anchor there nor climb about as it is far to dangerous and uninhabitable.  Long ago phosphate was mined out of here but was abandoned some years later.  One of the hurricanes destroyed all signs of life and nothing has ever been rebuilt.  There is a KINGDOM of Redonda - or perhaps WAS a Kingdom of Redonda in the 1800’s.  An English writer apparently badgered the King of England into giving him a title and that is what he got.  He handed it down to friends, who continued the tradition, calling themselves KING.  Finally in 1998, the latest King tired of it all and a local artist from Antigua claimed the title, saying he was ‘on the short list as he was only 5 feet tall’.... and so it goes on and on and on and on.....Fun stuff to read while cruising past toward Montserrat further south.

Montserrat’s main anchorages are now Little Bay & Cars Bay, side by side and both of which are far from the volcano & considered safe.  Safe, that is, as long as there are no northerly swells which will make the anchorages horrible and impossible to dink to shore.  Little Bay will also be very uncomfortable in the regular strong NE trade winds as the easterly swell rounds the corner.   When we return in the winter, the winds would probably no longer permit anchoring safely. 

Dropping the hook in Little Bay, a bit nervous about the reef to the south of us and trying to stay out of the channel that barges and fisherman utilize, we settled in among the six or so boats already there.
Finally Fun @ anchor in Little Bay

It didn’t take long for the Police Boat to zoom out to us - “Sorry, so sorry, but we have bad news for you.  You must move your boat as you are in the channel (remember, the channel is NOT marked - it was hard to figure out where it was) and we expect a barge or two over the next day and night.”  Oops, okay.  The only spot left was closer to that reef than we would have liked, but we took it anyway.....we like a LOT of room but on a day like this, a little room will do versus NO room.

Joe, a/d/a 'Avalon' showing us BEFORE photos

Immediately hailed on the VHF as soon as our hook was dropped, "Avalon", a local tour/taxi driver offered to take us to see the volcano & the island tomorrow for $130.   We were impressed by his salesmanship.  Right after that, we received a VHF call from “Wildcat” a catamaran we’d been chatting with via VHF since departing St. Maartin the day before.  Meeting Chris and Pam from Wildcat as we cleared into Montserrat, plans were quickly made and we booked Avalon to take the 4 of us on the tour tomorrow for the same $130 quoted.

I heard snorkeling is fairly decent here.   As soon as we were settled in & had cleared Customs & Immigration,  I talked Andy into taking me around into Rendezvous Bay, just above us and letting me jump out of the dingy to check it out.  Not so good - mostly rock that slid off the mountain above.  I swam for a bit before returning to the dingy where Andy patiently sat waiting for me. 

May 24, 2011, Tuesday  Touring Montserrat - the Soufriere Hills Volcano
Soufriere Hills Volcano on Montserrat

What an awesome day!  This small, 40 square mile island was actually settled by the IRISH who arrived from St. Kitts in 1630, establishing small farms growing a mix of crops.  They were unable to survive economically and most returned to Ireland - but not before declaring this place The Emerald Isle - just like Ireland.   Traces of the Irish influence are still found on the island today.   Names such as O’Brian, Ryan, Galloway  etc. are still in use here by the descendants, as are some traditional Irish meals and foods.

This fairly small, pear shaped island is now divided into two zones because of the volcanic activity and so very different from each other.

As we cruised from the North into Little Bay, we saw lush green vegetation on the mountains and some typical colorful Caribbean houses.

Note the slash of dirt - slides from the spewing volcano
We could see the Soufriere Hills volcano spewing steam from a crater and smaller columns of steam rising to the clouds around that in the distance.

The southern part of the island is mostly gray, brown, no vegetation and what looks like mud slides abounding.  There are signs on some of the roads to GO NO FURTHER and gates are up.

This island, until the first eruption in 1995, was thriving.  About 11,000 lived here, farming, fishing or working in the tourist industry.  Many Americans and Canadians had lovely second homes here.  Boom, without warning, it erupted, destroying Plymouth, the Capitol city in the south.
Plymouth before - note the long dock

Plymouth AFTER - Note the shorter dock - land filled in

Plymouth - town is gone

Much of the surrounding area became nearly uninhabitable due to the ash and dust that was a constant presence, but people remained in ‘safe zones’ nearby.  Then in 2003, the crater dome collapsed.  People thought that meant Soufriere was going back to sleep and began reopening the area, repairing and rebuilding Plymouth and the surrounding areas and physically moving back in.  Unfortunately, in 2006 and again in 2008, more eruptions occurred re-destroying much of the rebuild.  If it wasn’t re-destroyed then, it is continuing to be destroyed now because of the ash, dust and sand that washes down continually.
View cruising southward PAST Plymouth & southern end of Montserrat

Looking at 2nd story of a home

This is debris - mud/sand slides

Someone's home
Traveling on a golf course

Total destruction

  There is now a large NO GO exclusion zone that covers about 2/3 of the island.  About 8,000 of 11,00 people living here finally left, going to other islands or to England (this is British and England helped them) many leaving their homes forever with nothing and broke, as jobs dried up and businesses failed.  

Some had insurance; some did not and those that did often found themselves without recovering much, due to insurance ‘loopholes’.  Jobs, everything gone.

Today, there is an Observatory from which scientists work, trying to stay one step ahead of another eruption.  There are formal volcano alerts providing information as to potential danger increasing or decreasing and what the winds are doing to the ash spewing forth, etc.  (Log onto or or call the Montserrat Observatory at 664-491-5647 for information.)  Of interest to boaters reading this, the exclusion zone extends some 2 miles offshore on the southern side -- the beach has been extended by the slides, ash and dust and shoaling continues to occur. 

The Observatory
Avalon a/k/a Joe Phillips (664-492-1565 or VHF 16 Avalon) is recommended in Chris Doyle’s guide and cited elsewhere as a very professional guide.  We agree!  His tour I think is twice the price of another we met - maybe - not certain, but I noticed we were gone nearly twice as long as the other couple.  Joe told us often that he IS the best tour guide because he knows his history, knows the volcano and has the BEFORE photos.  He is a wealth of information, handing us brochures he’d prepared that covered the history, the destruction and information about volcanic terms and differences in volcanos, etc.

Best of all, he had the actual photographs of places we visited taken BEFORE the volcano.
The golf course BEFORE

Golf course AFTER

Driving over it all  making our own road
Looking at the photo of a beautiful home, of a golf course, of the resort and golf clubhouse before the eruption and then, standing there, in the middle of it all on a 3 story mud/dust/whatever slide that covered the golf course, covered the 3 story home up to the top roof; covered the club house to it’s top floor made a huge impact on us all.  It would not have been so overwhelming had we not see the before photos.  (See all my photos which include his before photos and what we saw after).
An expensive home on the golf course

Same home, Note the roof

All that is left of that beautiful home

The countryside was pretty, lush, green and peaceful with goats, lambs and cattle all over the place.   Learning how much we loved mangos, Joe stopped several times and helped us knock a bunch off the trees till we could barely carry any more.

Mango Tree

Joe has the stick.  Sharon can barely reach the mangos.

Hot and hungry, we stopped at TINA’s for lunch - a great meal of locally caught fish at very reasonable prices.  At Joe’s suggestion, we ordered homemade fresh Ginger Beer (not a beer).  In the US and elsewhere, Ginger Beer comes in a can and is a somewhat spicy ginger ale.  Here, fresh grated ginger, sugar, and I don’t know what else, but it was delightful & a real taste treat!   The coconut pie, warm from the oven was a hit - freshly grated coconut straight from a tree outside made the difference.

Andy drinking the cool water from the stream

Joe stopped along the way to have us drink out of the mountain stream, telling us 'that once you taste the water here, you will always come back'.  

The cashew fruit & nut
Amazing what one learns by traveling.  Joe plucked the cashew nut from a tree.  Note the nut has a fruit attached!  These are two separate things:  One eats the fruit, breaking off the cashew nut and peeling it.  The fruit tasted a bit slimy to me and I won't become a fan.  Ah, the cashew nut, on the other hand, as you all know - is delish!!!

Cashew fruit w the nut

Returning to the boat, Chris and Pam took me snorkeling with them - leaving Andy quite happy not to have to go.  We selected a different spot, off the curving mountain wall between Little Bay and Rondezvous Bay.  Ah, much better as there was more coral and more fish.  Curious about the ‘caves’ cut into the rock, we swam in to check it out and to see how far back the ‘cave’ went.  Huh, birds in here????  A squeeking noise.  OMG - not bird - BATS.  Ugh hundreds of bats along the walls up high in each of these ‘caves’.  Did you know one can back pedal with fins on????  Outta there in a hurry.  Ugh.   I could smell bat guano and wondered how much was in the water around me.  GROSS.

In spite of the bats, I loved our day on Montserrat - what an great experience!
Bat Cave is behind & to the left of the large barge boat