Friday, January 22, 2010

2nd Year: Charleston to Key West

Ashley Marina in Charleston, SC
 Tied to a Dock during the Holiday Season

We did get to the bottom of the FL and the SC boat taxation issues and are totally bummed.  Ah, FL will tax us the difference between the 5% sales tax we paid to MD when we purchased our boat and the 6% rate in FL if we stay more than 90 days.  That is a significant amount of cash - and money flushed as we gain nothing from the State of FL for all that money.  So, we've trashed all our plans  rewriting our itinerary for the winter.  We will stay an addtl 30 days in SC and NOT stay at the Marina in Jacksonville as planned for the month of December.  Loss to FL and the Jax Marina is $1,000 just for the slip alone, plus groceries, fuel, entertainment, beer and wine bills, etc. etc.  SC will gain the revenue.  FL will also lose the additional month we'd planned in the Keys and all that revenue we would have spent...

Funny, we learned we can stay in SC for 180 days with no tax penalty and would you believe SC will tax a boat owner 10.5% of the value of the boat EACH YEAR for each year you are more than 180 days in the state.  A couple of years ago, SC changed their law down to 90 days and suddenly, the marinas in SC were raising cain as they calculated they LOST 85% of their business as boats pulled out and us cruisers heading south or back north did not stay for long.  The State changed it back to 180 days.  Still, a 10.5% penalty on a reasonably new, fair sized trawler could cost one $70,000 + EACH YEAR.  Nuts.  No one can afford that....  Personally, I'm sick of taxation without representation...Every state has their hand out so now I need to figure tax laws and days cruising in a state along with the hours to get to A from B, etc. etc.  One more calculation to include in my planning and scheming.

                                "Land was created to provide a place for boats to visit"

January 2, 2010  Happy New Year & We are OFF to Key West!!
Andy's family:  Twins Adam & Chris, Grandchildren




Finally Fun is casting off this morning, headed to Key West for the winter after spending two months tied to the marina dock in Charleston, SC.  It's been a busy two months, celebrating Thanksgiving and Christmas with family and friends.

Grandson Chase

Granddaughter Rylie

Grandson Gage






 

We've traveled to Jacksonville and Clearwater via auto twice; flown to Oklahoma City over Christmas to visit Andy's three children and three grandchildren; got caught in the biggest snowstorm Oklahoma has ever had and now our itchy 'got to move on' feet are finally gonna get OFF land.















Hal, Sharon, Jill & Andy
Jill & Hal Chase, who had met us in Jacksonville (from their home in St. Pete) settled in for the 6-7 day cruise from Charleston to Jacksonville.  Alas, our thoughts of warm sunshine; evening cookouts on deck and sightseeing in the various ports  of call along the way will be for naught!  Same as last year, we are cruising the ICW from Charleston to Jacksonville in freezing weather – 17 – 24 degrees are to be the norm.  Back again to those fleece pants, wool socks, gloves, wool hats, and other various layers of clothing worn everyday, including even to bed, that were the de rigeur same time last year!!!!  Gotta be a message in here somewhere that will impact our future cruising plans – and I’ll find it!!  Hal won't complain – being from CT, he finds the air refreshing, especially after spending his first summer in St. Pete, FL as a newlywed with Jill.



We pulled out of Charleston in the early morning of with ice on our deck -- much to our surprise as we moved about trying to get out of the slip and underway.  I nearly busted myself up big time as I raced forward to grab a line and OOPS.....slick slick slick deck!

Shattered table on the aft deck of Finally Fun
Our large outdoor glass top table on the aft deck also shattered into a million tiny pieces.  We believe water got on it and the water froze, creating pressure, cracking and shattering it.  I suspect we'll be finding pieces of glass for quite some time!  We have already ordered a new piece of glass and should pick it up in Stuart, FL while we are there for 5 days. 

Just for the record, after hours of investigation, confusion and much discussion with  the head of Florida's taxation department, we resolved the tax issue if one is in the state more than 90 days.  The State won't tax us the difference in taxation rates from what we paid to MD since the boat was not in FL the first six months of ownership.  We will registered the boat in FL when we get there as we would have had to do that anyway if staying more than 90 days and we will not renew our MD registration...so we are good to go and stay in the Keys til April as we had originally planned to do.  One issue resolved.



Now, let's see today if the Ray Marine Chart Plotter will work properly.  We had two different repairmen on board while in Charleston trying to fix the thing.  The first guy basically got thrown off by me after he spent several hours digging around and scratching his head.  When he said OUT LOUD to me, after he could not fix anything, "Well, years ago everyone just used paper charts and not all this equipment, so just keep your charts handy for when this fails and you will be okay."



I informed him that we had paid mega bucks for this piece of lousy equipment and as long as Ray Marine would give us every penny back for both units, I'd be happy to go back to only paper charts.  In the interim, I expected to get what we paid for and that was equipment that would WORK.

He left and never sent a bill - which I would never have paid anyway.  The second guy, much smarter, found a broken plug in the cable and fixed that.  Simple repair and makes me wonder why in the world after all the guys investigating and shipping the equipment back twice over the past year and a half, that no one saw that.  We shall see while underway if this is the final FIX.....



January 8, 2010

Nope, the Ray Marine Chart Plotter continues to fail, creating tense moments coming down the ICW with it's shallow waters and NO depth sounder working much of the time.  I hate everything to do with this equipment and often with this boat.  Port engine also quit first day out of Charleston but Andy was able to switch out a relay and it is working...I do wish we'd bought a zillion year old boat instead of this new one as I would expect repairs on the old boat and perhaps not get so angry that this NEW boat is full of problems that we keep spending time and money on.  



This entire week is still one of bitter cold as we cruise south to Jacksonville, FL.  Jill and Hal, cruising with us all week,  have been troopers, staying up top with us while underway.  We should have a contest to see who has on the most clothing.....I generally have on two pairs of wool socks; two pairs of gloves; 2 layers of shirts under my fleece jacket and been wearing the same pair of fleece pants all week.  The pants can walk and stand on their own by now, I'm certain!

I dream of my flip flops....perhaps now Andy will agree to go to the British Virgin Islands for a couple of years...they DO NOT get this cold weather!  

Our first night out of Charleston was spent in Beaufort, SC, a charming little town.  With the bitter cold, however, we managed to walk only a couple of blocks peeking into store windows before heading back to the warmth of the boat.

Jack & Barbara
We celebrated on board the upcoming marriage on the 3rd of an old friend of mine, Jack Hopke and his bride, Barbara, who had traveled with their families from New Orleans to Beaufort to be married in one of the charming old inns.  Small world to be in the same little town at the same time and fun to catch up with each other and to be able to offer up a toast in celebration of the marriage.



Pirate House is haunted.  See any wispy things in the photo?
Our second  and third nights were spent in Savannah at the city marina, a highlight for Jill and Hal.  We managed to do some sightseeing, take a city tour  and walk about in spite of the bitter cold.    Dinner at The Pirate House brought back many a memory for me as I’d eaten many a meal there as a kid.  The city of Savannah was the closest beach to Ft. Stewart, GA, where my Dad was stationed when I was about 6 or 7 years old.  This time I was too big/old to rummage in the Treasure Chest for a treat – even though I had cleaned my plate! 

Jill checking out a room of the Pirate House





These barges came right into downtown Savannah!


 Sleeping aboard was a different matter, however, as the barges and tugs move up and down the river at all hours of the day and night.  We rocked and rolled a lot and bounded out of bed more than once, convinced a barge was coming down on us....noisy place!!






Night #4 found us at anchor.  The bitter cold did mean clear skies and bright stars, but it was so cold only a peek outside for a quick look would do....no real star gazing in this weather!  The next morning we decided to just speed up, cruising southbound for hopefully warmer weather.  Due to the 20 degree temperature, we blew off plans to stop at Cumberland Island and hike about and also blew off tentative plans to stop to visit friends on Sapelo Island....way too cold for any of that.

We made it to Fernandina Beach for the night which is a quaint town to visit and one we all enjoyed walking about in.  

We arrived in Jacksonville on the afternoon of the 7th, where we will stay til Sunday, January 10, visiting my sister and Mom.  Jill & Hal headed for home and promised to come aboard again - probably in Key West.  Sleet, ice and maybe snow are being muttered around here for today, the 8th!  I'm afraid to attempt to wash the salt off the boat as I think the water will freeze solidly and may never melt!!  Bah.  I'm still hopeful that this second year of cold will make it easier to convince Andy that cruising to the British Virgin Islands is not such a bad idea after all!!!
 
Sunday, January 10, 2010

Breaking thru ice on the ICW in Jacksonville
Pulled out of Beach Marina, Jacksonville Beach about 7:45 AM in bitter cold, but heading SOUTH and hopefully for warmer weather!  OH MY GOD, less than one hour underway, suddenly, a weird scary sound -- loud, crunchy like someone was peeling the hull off the boat!

Big chunks off the aft


Both Andy & I were shouting to each other --- "What THE ??  What is THAT? "  We scrambled to look over the side to see what was happening.  To our utter amazement, Finally Fun had turned into an ICE BREAKER boat!  There in the Intercoastal Waterway, near Palm Coast, barely south of Jacksonville, the ICW was frozen over!!!
Remember, we are in FLORIDA!!










 Chips and chunks of ice were being broken up by our boat and would go skidding off to the left or right of the boat, just like hockey pucks in a big game. 


Behind the boat, in our wake, ice would break into large sheets and float off to the left or right in the wake, sliding across the remaining, intact ice!!!

It sounded like our hull was being peeled off!

ICW frozen all the way across it!







 The ice lasted about a mile, clearly in an area that didn't have much current, nor much in the way of sunlight!  Check out our amazing photos!  I TOLD YOU IT WAS COLD!!!













The day continued cold and colder and the Ray Marine Chart Plotter continues its off/on and OFF when we need it the most.  If someone finds us sunk somewhere, it means the Chart Plotter failed at the worst possible time, as usual.  They are promising yet another repairman when we arrive in Stuart, FL.  Should have heaved the thing into the ice this morning.........



Most of the birds are hunkered down in trees - guess the water is too cold for their little feet too.  AND a first for us this afternoon, cruising toward Daytona Beach.  A Mommy Dolphin came to play in our wake, bringing her TINY baby dolphin with her, apparently teaching baby how to have fun in the water!  We've never seen one so very small!  Daddy Dolphin hung back about 10 feet behind the two of them, never jumping or playing, just watching, watching, watching, following them.  Such protective parents!  It was heart warming to see the little family and to watch the little one do some baby leaps out of the water -- not too high, but little leaps the same!  Reminds me of Baby's First Steps with parents hovering by!



Speaking of family, IT IS a GIRL BABY due May 24, making Grandbaby #4 for me and Lindsay's second child.  We are excited!  AND Daughter, Stacey, eloped, marrying a great guy, Nate!  So our family continues to expand! 
We are thrilled with it all!

Monday, January 11, 2010

Pulled anchor just off the ICW in Daytona Beach, headed for Cocoa Village Marina for the next two days, where I am hosting a Girl Friend Slumber Party.  Several of my very best girl friends from high school (Judy, Jill, Jean) are meeting Finally Fun at the marina for a day and evening of talk, talk, talk  THIS slumber party, unlike the others from many years past, will have wine, rum from the Bahamas, and whatever else we want.  Andy is retreating OFF the boat to stay at Jill's condo with her husband, Bob.....too many women, too much gossip and possibly too much wine....grin

Wednesday, January 13, 2010

We spent two nights at Cocoa Village, wandering about.  This is a darling quaint area and when I was here in high school, certainly not charming by any means.  Lots of great restaurants and shops to explore and that we did, always walking on the sunny side of the street.  Weather is improving, but still a bit too cool for me.  Every day is supposed to be a better day as we move further south.  

My Girl Friend Slumber Party was wonderful - how great to catch up with friends from more than 40 years ago and every MORE delightful to find that 40 years made no difference.  Our dynamics were the same, the memories hilarious, the gossip revealing (REALLY!!  I NEVER knew THAT!!) as we flipped through the decades old yearbooks looking at classmates and the hysterical stories of our lives over the past 40 years made for a great evening.  We did notice a couple of differences, however, between THEN and NOW.  This time, no one snuck cigarettes, we had wine we could legally drink and on the down side was the fact that we 4 women went to bed about 11:30 PM, unlike during our high school slumber parties, when there certainly was NO slumber til about 4:00 am.  Guess some things DO change!

It was a wonderful day and evening of friendship and renewal! We have vowed to find time for more of this -- a girl trip is in works and is so good for the soul!  This cruising life style is wonderful – we see friends all the time while traveling to wonderful cities and towns!!  Actually, we spend more time with friends and family that we were able to do while working!

January 13 &14, 2010
We are on a mission to arrive in Stuart, FL in time for the DeFever Rendezvous and the Stuart Boat Show, something we had been looking forward to for some time.  The Rendezvous is a unique opportunity to meet up with other DeFever owners, share war stories, gain information and how to and what NOT to do specific to our DeFever brand of boats and, of course, to go aboard their various boats for show and tell.  This Rendezvous has also given us an opportunity to catch up with boating friends we met along our cruise to Canada last summer.  We had dinner with Ted & Stella of Path Finder - a very nice treat for us all.


Then, after five days of this and we’re OFF again --- continuing southbound for warm warm weather….we hope. 

The dolphin must be enjoying the warmer weather too, as this is the first time so many have followed us for so very long!  We watch them from afar spot our boat and watch them make a bee line for us!

Back in the aft wake they play, this time for over an hour!  There were at least 12 and they moved from side to side, with one in particular making like a airplane rolling over and over and over under the water.  I never ever tire of watching the dolphin and this morning was extra special as the dolphin on the starboard side, leaping high out of the water, would catch the sunlight and a rainbow would appear over each!  WOW. 


Ah, the Ray Marine Chart Plotter saga continues with its disastrous off/on, never fully working, leaving us guessing and gasping as to where we are and what depth we might be at.  Ray Marine sent yet another repair person (remember, we had TWO repair people while in Charleston, replacing cables, etc. to NO avail).  Again, here in Stuart, after much poking around, the guy upgraded the software and made sure all was operating – which it was and always does until we get underway.   A day underway will tell!



January 18, 2010

We left the Harborage Yacht Club & Marina in Stuart in high hopes that maybe, finally, this never to work  equipment would be fixed.    Guess again, same story as always…one day underway out of Stuart and it begins its same off/on,  beeping til I still want to throw a shoe through the damn thing.  Given that my lifestyle is flip flops, that would obviously be an exercise in futility…I would FEEL better, but no damage would be done….guess you can’t break what is already broken…

More calls to Ray Marine and to their credit, they made arrangements to have a technician meet us at a restaurant dock in Ft. Lauderdale  on January 19 while we would be having lunch there and also to pick up Becky and Galen McCrum, who’d just flown in from Atlanta for a week aboard on the way to Key West.
Expensive piece of CRAP

This time, a year and a half of NEVER working properly and too many repair calls to count, Ray Marine replaced our E120 Chart Plotter.  Guess what, you got it….this NEW one quit working about one day down the ICW – typically story for us and one that I am so OVER.  Many phone calls to the tech and lots of diagnosis and repair work while underway…to no avail as usual.   We have no choice but to continue to Key West, carefully plotting and charting our course as the Florida waters are shallow, with numerous reefs everywhere.

January 19, 20 & 21, 2010
Leaving Miami in our wake
Miami's ICW among the rich & richer
With Becky and Galen settling into this cruising lifestyle, we made our way from Ft. Lauderdale past many many 'millionaire's row' of homes - each larger and more beautiful than the next.  The boats tied up along side the homes were also of the multi-million dollar variety....Phew - a lot of wealth along here and it does make for interesting sightseeing.  We dropped our hook the first night out surrounded by money and enjoyed looking at the same stars out as the rich and famous do...

Traveling via Hawk Channel, between the reefs and the east coast of Florida, we ventured into John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park on Key Largo.  Pennekamp is a legend area among the scuba divers, containing 178 square nautical miles of coral reef, sea grass beds and mangrove swamps.  Tropical fish abound among the wrecked ships down below and it is colorful and beautiful to dive or snorkel here.


Wildlife everywhere
Despite the written warnings that boats drawing more than 4 feet draft can't come in, we spoke with the marina and they said 'come on in - on rising high tide'.  Phew, the channel is very narrow and depth drops to one foot or so immediately out of the channel....NO room for error here.  Galen & I stayed on the bow, motioning Andy which way to go in the twists and turns of the canal among all the mangrove trees.   A beautiful way in in spite of the tension.

The marina isn't much to speak of, but we enjoyed the hiking about among the mangrove trees and along the beaches and in general watching the wildlife all around in this remote state park.  We took a glass bottom boat ride out to the reef and that was a real highlight for Becky and Galen, who haven't seen much or any of this type floral and fauna.  We even managed to hitch a ride in the back of a pick up truck to get to US 1, the only road and found a great seafood restaurant.  All in all, a relaxing couple of days basically 'in the woods'.
Sharon & Becky on the glass bottomed boat

Alas, however, on the way OUT, heading to Marathon for the night, we bumped, the port engine burped and quit and suddenly CRUNCH, we were out of the channel and the prop hit rock.  Bah, another prop repair is in store for us.

A curious factoid:  I never knew Florida had crocodiles!  Alligators glore, yes, but crocks???  Reading my guidebooks and reviewing charts, I noticed a paragraph warning boaters to NOT swim in the brackish and salt waters of the upper Keys due to the sheer numbers of these critters.  Seems the crocs are protected, but humans are not!  Looking closely at my charts, I then also noticed the "Crocodile Lake National Wildlife Refuge",  home to North America's largest concentration of these creatures!

Love the houses in Biscayne Bay all on stilts
January 22, 2010

Beautiful run from Pennecamp to Marathon - about 6 hours underway in Hawk Channel with minimal rocking and rolling in the Atlantic.  No mooring balls were available due to the popularity of this town among the cruisers but we were able to get space at the City Marina, hopping off long enough to meet our friends John & Ellie aboard Adios moored in the mooring field, for dinner.  A great time and great meal was had by all as we exchanged stories.  Becky & Galen are amazed at the sailing resume of John & Ellie, who have sailed all over the world before going to the Dark Side to move aboard their trawler.

Monday, October 26, 2009

2nd Year: Southbound Norfolk to Charleston 2009

  Monday, October 26, 2009

Love the firepower around Norfolk!
Pulled out of the Norfolk Naval Marina early making that turn to ICW Mile Marker 0, the start of the journey really south.  The ICW starts here and for our purposes, ends at Key West at Mile Marker 1240 where we plan to spend a couple of months.  For the short term, we are headed to Charleston for a month at Ashley Marina, Mile Marker 468.  Ouch, payback time.  We fueled up at Ocean Marina, taking on 500.3 gallons of diesel for $1,225.23 ($2.45 gal) - putting in 214 in the port tank and 232 on the starboard side.  We topped off the aft tank with 50 gals.

We love the beauty of the primeval Dismal Swamp route, narrow, autumn trees in nearly full color lining the banks; dark brown tannic water and lots of birds, so we turned sharp right rather than head the route through Coinjack, NC.  However, this year, even with water levels higher than in years, we kept bumping and bumping -- like logs banging under our hull, not running aground.  The banging slamming quickly got on our nerves and we've sworn -- 'no more'. 
Southbound in the Dismal Swamp

The infamous Ray Marine Chart Plotter malfunctioned today yet again.  Here we go again with a lousy piece of equipment that is absolutely driving me crazy.

Pulling into the Dismal Swamp Welcome Station for the night after locking through the first of two locks today.  The place was crowded with boats, so we rafted up to a 36' Monk with new boaters aboard....Dean & Renee have just begun their new adventure and are headed south for the winter to begin their new life style.

Settling in for the evening with 4 rows of boats rafted 3 across each, I kept wondering who in the world out there was still running a generator at 11 PM; at midnight and on and on.  The sound was softer so I thought it was a sailboat generator. At 2:00 AM Andy jumped out of bed, running to the cockpit flashlight in hand.  Ugh, the noise was us!  Seems we had a pump going all night -- did not sound like any pump noise I'd ever heard.... A short time of banging around in the lazarette and the problem was solved, but only after Andy bumped into the high water alarm down in there setting it off into it's screeching and beeping.  I do hope we did not wake anyone!

Tuesday, October 27, 2009 & Wednesday, October 28
In only a few minutes the approximately 12 boats untied from each other and the dock wall and all of us made the 8:30 lock opening.  Being big and on the outside of the rafting group, we made it to Elizabeth City ahead of the masses and for the first time were able to secure a spot on the wall (got there about 2:30).  We  were invited at least 4 times to the 4:30 wine and cheese party hosted by the City for the boaters.  A nice time, with a warm welcome speech and an overview of what to see/do in Eliz City.  
Downtown Elizabeth City is charming
Firefly store was an old pharmacy in years past.

Original pharmacy labels on drawers are still in existence!

Beautiful old buildings in Eliz City

With crummy weather on the way that will toss up Albemarle Sound, we stayed put another day, as did all the other boaters.  Again, a nice two days and evenings meeting other boaters & seeing some old friends.  We again attended the RoseBud Ladies wine and cheese, a tradition that has been going on for years.  A very friendly city for sure.

Thursday, October 29, 2009
Pulled out of Eliz City at first light (7:15 am) with a fleet of 10-11 boats, moving southward  - reminding me of the birds flocking together flying south.  We are traveling w Adios again and with the Monk 36 "Prime Time" we rafted up to the other night.  Dreary, cold day underway.
Heading south!



Just south of Eliz City is a blimp factory!!
 Today, I counted and wrote it down.  In the first 30 minutes the RayMarine Chart Plotter went off twice.  By 9:30 AM it had shut down/malfunctioned 11 times.  At the end of the day, it had malfunctioned 19 times, leaving us with - among other things - no depth sounder in these shallow waters that are fraught with shoals, etc.  Our group of 3 boats pulled into Alligator River Marina  at noon - not a bad place - it is actually a truck stop on the highway, with water behind it!  We had the 'cocktail' party aboard Finally Fun with Adios and Prime Time -- lots of great conversations and laughs.

Friday, October 30, 2009
Pulled out of Alligator River Marina at 8:00 am, in a line of boats again with weather clearing.  Today, not only is the Chart Plotter still going off, but the auto pilot is screwy, so I kept the boat underway manually.  I think the boat behind me thought we must be drinking and piloting -- even called me on the radio to ask if something was wrong with the Chart Plotter again.....weaving and weaving til I turned it to Manual Mode.   Me, I prefer that  anyway to using auto or Nav, just like I don't use much in the way of cruise control...preferring to just drive the car.  I think it is a control thing!  Andy says Nav is a little screwy today, going off in the opposite direction.  What is this all about?????

Love the sunsets at anchor!
Dropped hook in Pungo Creek just south of Belhaven at a lovely anchorage, Adios & Prime Time settling into their spots around us for the evening.

Saturday, October 31, 2009 & Sunday, November 1, 2009
Sharon & Karen w a 'rock star' at a NPC launch meeting in 2007
Happy Halloween!  On our way to Beaufort, NC, where we will meet a former work colleague & friends, Karen & Donna,  who will stay aboard til Monday AM.  Arrived at 3:00 ish, staying at Beaufort Docks, right in the heart of the tiny city.  With nice weather, we walked the quaint, charming town, having a great dinner at the Beaufort Grocery Company.  Sunday was not so nice, but we still were able to shop, wander about and even drive to Morehead City to look around.  This marina is packed with boats headed south - so always make a reservation prior to arrival here!  See the link to photos of our weekend in Beaufort, NC.   http://www.photoshow.com/watch/VX6Hf8ie

Monday, November 2, 2009
Donna & Karen were jolted awake by the large boat docked next to us - hitting us on their way out.  They said it was quite a bump at the bow.  Inspecting closely, we could find no damage, so let the issue go.  Bummer boat - hit and run.  I see that all too often.

Pulled out after a great breakfast on board and goodbyes to Karen & Donna with cold gray weather still.  Uneventful day on the ICW, with careful attention paid to the charts and markers as shoaling is everywhere.  A jerk in a go fast boat waked us, throwing our stuff around all over below.  Andy yelled at him on the VHF and we heard via VHF other boats down the line doing the same.  What is the matter with these jerks?
Entering Camp Lejune via the ICW - See warning about live firing!

A major mess and a nightmare trying to anchor in Hammock Basin on the USMC Camp Lejune basin, where we've anchored in the past with no issues.  My goodness, we dropped the hook 6 times, dragging out each time.  The anchor would  come out of the water with the shackle bent at a right angle & we finally figured out that it was not able to roll, turn or do it's thing underwater to grab bottom because of the angle.  Andy would try to fix it, hammering it with the boat hook as we hauled it up over and over.  At one point, we hauled it onto the deck to try to work it loose and it slammed into the boat, creating some damage at the anchor pulpit.  By that time, we had dropped anchor, pulled anchor, circled all over trying to find a new spot where we might have better luck til I know every boater in the basin (and there were at least 20!) was wondering how unskilled and what idiots we were!!!

Finally, I figured out  that no matter where we put the boat, the anchor was not going to do its job because the shackle would go sideways when it touched bottom and was freezing up at an angle, not allowing the anchor to set at all.   It finally froze up so tightly that there was no way we could get it straight - so there  we were, with the anchor at a right angle to the chain.

Our friend, John, aboard Adios, was in the basin and dinked over to help.  Long story short with no easy fix in sight, we finally, with lots of difficulty,  dropped our second anchor by hand with it's 20 feet of chain and then the long line.   John & Andy then  proceeded to take the seized up shackle OFF and replace it with one from John's stash of tools (boat jewels he calls them).  We then pulled up the first anchor and all that line - again by hand - and successfully dropped the Rocnar anchor.  The deck was covered with mud and water, as were John & Andy!

This is the second shackle we've had on it because we had the same problems and here we go again with another freaking repair that did not work and for which we paid good money.  This frustrating exercise took almost 2.5 hours to resolve!  John stayed for a beer and went back for Ellie and we had a nice visit while my blood pressure came down and so did Andy's.  Thank God for John - I don't know what we would have done without his help!  There is no way I could have launched that second anchor by hand nor gotten it pulled up, even with the help of the winch - which we used but with difficulty.  Then - with no extra shackle on board and only that second anchor set with line, Andy & I would probably have taken shifts during the night to be certain we didn't drag - GPS set too.

By the way - there is no other place to go for miles -- this is the only place to stop so we were really 'stuck' here, like it or not!!!!  Later, thinking about it, Andy said he would have rafted up to John - John liking it or NOT!

We also ended up selecting one of the few remaining spots which happened to be in front of "Aquila" a sailboat from Chalfort, PA.  First time we dropped the hook the woman on board (that was no lady)  stood on the bow screeching that she had 150 feet of line out and that we needed to move.  We ended up, at the end of our circling, dropping, cursing afternoon trying to fix and set the anchor by her once more with no place else to go.

One more time, she's up screeching she has 120 feet of line out.  Lady, make up your mind and get your story straight - is it 120 or 150 feet?  And besides that - - you, lady, are irresponsible, laying out that much line in a crowded anchorage with no storm coming.  She kept screeching that she "didn't want that boat by her" and then her husband came out and loudly tried to tell me how to set a hook.  As I interrupted  to explain that we knew how to set a hook & that we had a mechanical problem, he said, "Shut up & listen to me".  What an ass.  By then I was livid at them and shouting,  let them know we had a mechanical problem, etc. and if they had an issue, they should say it to us and not loudly to the 'world'.  She continued to bitch and moan.  I hope I can cross paths with her on land or somewhere close by.  She is an attitude that gives (a) women and (b) boaters a bad name and he's not much better.

Tuesday, November 3, 2009
Ah, slept somewhat peacefully, swaying quite a bit at the anchorage, but worried about dragging.  Perfect night, did not budge an inch.  This daylight savings time is getting to me - feel like a baby with days and nights mixed up...preferring to sleep in, which I did til 7:00.  We pulled out at 7:15, with most all the other boats already out and underway.

There are a series of three bridges to traverse today, with careful scheduling to make it work.  The first one, Surf City Bridge, opens on the HOUR only; the second 8 miles away, Figure 8 Bridge, opens on the 1/2 and the hour  and the last, Wrightsville Beach Bridge only 5 miles further down, opens only on the HOUR....so you can see, calculating speed and distance is crucial or one ends up circling in tight little circles, basically treading water til the bridge opens.

This morning, 25 boats went through the first bridge --- like an armada!  What a crowded place to be!  Sailboats and trawlers jockeying for space and position and if one was not tight in the pack, the bridge tender was threatening to shut the bridge!  We spent much of the morning passing sailboats and slower trawlers and we successfully traveled the 3 bridges with no 'down time'.  By afternoon, we were way ahead of the others with no issues.  Even passed the screechy woman aboard the sailboat, Aquila, who waved at us as did her husband.  Hhrump -grumpy hold a grudge me did not wave back.  She certainly did  irritate me no end....and a missed opportunity,  I had practiced mentally all sorts of retorts should she speak to us on the radio......she never did.

I think I need to get some sleep and wake up with a smile......or a boat that works better would make the difference in my sense of humor - or lack thereof.
Love the color along the way!

Ah, on to finer things.  The sections from here on southward are so beautiful.  Much of today was spent with the Atlantic Ocean peeking out from sand dunes on our left and low country marshes and barrier islands on our left and right, with birds of all types everywhere.  It is so peaceful through here EXCEPT one must pay close attention....the current can grab at you without warning and the inlets cutting in from the ocean, while scenic, create shoaling and the currents push you out of the channel if you get distracted for a second.

Note the large giraffe in the yard!
Wrightsville Beach & Topsail Island have the majority of beautiful homes and larger homes for much of the ICW til you get way further south - one is never bored cruising through here.....but REMEMBER one must pay ATTENTION to the water and not the houses....As this is now our third time cruising the ICW - we have become (a) more skilled and (b) remember where the trouble spots are.  We are now 'old hat' -- but one second of being complacent will certainly get us in some trouble somewhere along the line.....

We are at the St. James Marina, just below Southport, NC, for the evening -- there is no anchorage anywhere in this area so we stay here each time we traverse.  A nice spot, in the middle of an upscale residential community with its own marina.   I think they pick up a little extra cash by renting to transients for $1.00 a foot - a GREAT rate!  We enjoyed a lot of conversations with fellow boaters & a beer at the outdoor pub right at the docks. 

We think we can make Charleston by Thursday afternoon.....

Wednesday, November 4, 2009
Entering the Rock Pile - coquina everywhere
Up and out of the slip by 7:00 AM headed to Thoroughfare Creek in the absolutely drop dead gorgeous Waccamaw River - 74 miles.  We successfully traversed what is called the "Rock Pile" (MM 347-355) a 26 mile stretch of waterway lined with coquina rock ledges where boaters "routinely go aground on the rocks".    Some places are so narrow and twisting curves that tugs and boaters should announce their passage via VHF -- " a heads up, here we come, ready or not!"  call to all who are within range.  This year, while still carefully watching our chart and depth sounder, at least we could turn the steering wheel.....last year our palms were so sweaty it was difficult to hold the wheel!  We are more confident -- and that does NOT translate into over confident nor are we complacent!  Those two traits could get one into serious trouble on the water.....

Pontoon Bridge with new bridge being built to replace it
We also traveled through the last remaining swing bridge on a pontoon that floats the bridge back and forth - Sunset Beach Pontoon Bridge near Shallotte Inlet, at Mile Marker 338.  It looks as though this little quaint bridge will be no more by next year as a 65 foot mega bridge is being built right next to it.  Ah, progress comes at a price - while bridges such as this do slow one's progress a tiny bit, they are so charming and the bridge tenders so helpful -- they will be missed.

We arrived at about 4:00 ish, dropping the hook way up Thoroughfare Creek behind another trawler.  An uneventful day - which means a great day! This anchorage is one of my favorite - birds sing loudly, an owl or two hooting in the evening and the full moon & sky full of stars this evening was a plus!

Thursday, November 5, 2009
Pulled anchor just before 7:00 AM on a sunny, very cold morning with what I believe are wild pigs squealing on shore somewhere in the marsh and tree line area -- either that or there is a pig farm here which I seriously doubt!  Being a hiker and backpacker, a wild pig is NOT what I ever want to come across - they are meaner than mean and generally aggressive.  Good thing they don't have any inclination to swim to attack!
Cold Andy & this is the SOUTH

It is so cold this morning Andy put on his ski gloves so he could hold the metal steering wheel and I'm in my usual morning designer outfit of wool socks, fleece & wool bedroom slippers, fleece pants and a fleece shirt topped with a fleece jacket.  I'm the Southerner and it is too slow getting to warmer climates!  By afternoon, we've peeled to shorts and t-shirts and bare feet for me.  Go figure.......

Ah, I love cruising into the southern waters with the marshlands, trees, dolphin coming to play in our wakes on a fairly continual basis and the sun warming us through the bimini Isenglass windows.  It is so scenic & peaceful as one cruises the ICW past small fishing 'villages' with shrimping trawlers everywhere either at dock or viewed across the marsh as they ply their nets.  However, one cannot get mesmerized watching the view as there are so many little inlets coming in from the ocean side that GRAB your boat as you cruise by, pointing you in a direction you had not planned to take, forcing you to madly turn the wheel in the opposite direction to get back on track.
Cruise ship in Charleston Harbor

City Marina in Charleston
Whew!  Traversed into the very busy Charleston Harbor this afternoon, successfully navigating through confusing markers and rushing currents into Ashley Marina where we will stay for a month before heading further south.  Getting into and out of this Marina (or any marina in this harbor) is tricky, tough and scary.  We made it into our slip and settled in to play with grandchildren, RobertE and Riley, and daughter, Leslie, for the month.   A great respite to spend time with family and wander about our most favorite city, Charleston, with all its history and beauty.  We will drive to Jacksonville and Clearwater from here to visit Mom, sister and youngest daughter, Lindsay, baby Pickett and son in law, Walker.  Then, on to Jacksonville via Finally Fun to spend approx Dec. 10 thru Jan. 6...Plans are always subject to change with this lifestyle....we are hearing noises about some regulations from the State of FL that if you are in FL waters more than 90 days, you pay....so we will check that out and if the case, will stay here in SC the extra month, spending our $$$ here rather than FL.   FL seems to hate boaters; taking away the ability to anchor outside of many cities; tries to tax you for everything, including your boat, etc. etc.  Always looking for the dime --

The blog will be very sporadic while at dock here at Ashley Marina - if one of our friends reading this needs to reach us, use email:  sharon.larrison@gmail.com and you will get a prompt response.

Sunday, October 25, 2009

2nd Year: Kent Narrows to Norfolk

                         Southbound from Kent Narrows, Chesapeake Bay, via ICW

Tuesday, October 20, 2010
On our way!  After the sink/faucet repairs were completed at 6 PM on Monday, we decided to bolt....been tied to a dock way too long.  Up early, eager to pull out, even without any major planning, we headed out in great weather (cold to get warmer).  Ah, the sun sparkling on the water,  boats all around, birds all over and Finally Fun smoothly cutting through the water...so good to be underway......I could cruise forever.

Over the next 5 hours cruising toward Solomon's Island, our overnight anchorage, I figured out a plan for the next few months and especially for the next few weeks.  We will kill time sightseeing in VA as we can't go further south than Cape Hattaras, NC til 11/2, due to insurance requirements and the hurricane season.  (See our itinerary for plans).  Given that most boats have the same restriction, we are keeping our eyes peeled for friends we've met along the way -- many boats headed south this time of year.  Given that, I've planned our trip for early afternoon stops to ensure we will have swing room at anchorages.

Love the sunsets at anchor!
We pulled into Mill Creek, Solomons, at 2:00 today, dropping the hook.  By 4 PM there were 7 new boats swinging around us......We had our 'choice' spot, so no hassle.  Ah, a wonderful evening, reminding me how much I LOVE anchoring out and how much I don't enjoy the marinas.  The solitude (the other boats don't make any noise), the birds, trees, sunset, calm waters -- so relaxing.  AND a first warm day in what seems forever.  We sat on the aft deck, reading, writing, playing with our new Kindel that daughter, Stacey, gave us and reading the Wall St. Journal.  In general, just kicking back.  Best day in a long time... so nice to relax ON the water.

Wednesday, October 21, 2009
Ahh, another beautiful day - pulled anchor at 8:45 AM, cruising a long day to York, VA, actually on the York River and home of  the historic 'triangle' of York, Jamestown & Williamsburg.  We grabbed a mooring ball just as it was getting very dark ( I FINALLY found it in the water -- started to worry!) at River Landing in York just to spend the night for $25 vs about $90.  We'll move into their marina tomorrow early so we can play and sight see...too much trouble to do that from the dink and have to worry about losing power while we are gone for who knows how many hours out 'playing'. 
Coming into Yorktown at dusk


Bah, gremlins still inhabit this boat that I am certainly having a love/hate relationship with.  The RayMarine Chart Plotter that has given us nothing but trouble since DAY ONE and that no one can fix - in spite of being sent back TWICE, failed again.  Failed 6 times while underway after not failing all day yesterday - the first day it was in operation since being returned as 'fixed' by RayMarine.

Finally Fun almost alone in the marina at Yorktown
I am so sick of all this....still can't convince Andy to move to a sailboat with fewer moving parts....and be done with all this hassle.  We spent the usual inordinate amount of time on the phone speaking to the guy, Rick, who installed the units and keeps trying to fix them (it is both the upper and lower stations) and to RayMarine.  Finally, long story short, we will have someone meet us in Charleston (a real live CERTIFIED tech) and try to determine the problem.  And RayMarine will pay for it.   Me, I am ready to dump all those parts in the ocean with a big sign, "HERE LIES TWO RAYMARINE CHART PLOTTERS THAT HAVE  ALWAYS BEEN FOREVER DEAD" and I'm ready to slap a sign on Finally Fun, adding a big YELLOW LEMON to her hull...... 

Thursday & Friday, October 22 & 23, 2009
Relaxing, enjoyable days sightseeing in York & Williamsburg...and so easy to do.  This Triangle of historic sights has trolleys and a shuttle bus to hop on/off of all day long so no hassles with transportation. 
Yorktown bunkers

Note the hole in the building from the battle
 York is the site of the last battle in America's Revolutionary War, where Lord Cornwallis surrendered to General George Washington about 300 years ago.
Click to enlarge & read about the battle
The story, as told by one of our US Park Rangers, was hilarious, as he really got into the personalities and how and why the battle was won by us, vs being won by the Brits.  Amazing, we should have lost our quest for independence as it was just about over and our rag tag troops about done in, when Cornwallis got lazy, complacent and focused on chasing women -- very distracted.  Then we snuck in here & whipped him!!
 
The bunkers & Redoubt 10
I also enjoyed the risk taking the Americans pulled off as they fought for their beliefs and how they won at York.  I especially loved  the Ranger's take on history vs what I remember from my elementary school history.  Guess at that age, no one talked about chasing women....... if our schoolbooks were half as interesting as this Ranger and some of the Rangers I met in Canada, I'd have been a history major no doubt!  Both Williamsburg and York are so picturesque, charming and well worth the stop here, up the York River, just a few hours north of Norfolk and only an hour's drive from Richmond.



River Landing Marina at Yorktown

Williamsburg

York River


We hope to be off in the very early morning at first light, trying to beat out bad weather that is predicted for tomorrow.  We plan to hunker down at the military marina at the Norfolk Naval Base for one or two days and see if our Insurance Company will give us a waiver to head south a few days before the 11/1 date.....We need to beat out a bridge closing just north of Charleston that will give us a potential problem getting southbound....Andy doesn't like cruising in the ocean, given his last hurling experience.

Saturday, October 24, 2009
Up and headed down the York River back to Chesapeake Bay by 7:15 AM, in hopes of  beating the bad weather predicted.  Here we now sit at the military Norfolk Naval Base many hours later and no storm in sight.  An uneventful cruise here, taking about 4 hours and not the heavier seas predicted.  Surprise, we are in exactly the same T dock we were in last year when we were here!

Andy's nephew David, Andy, Brother George, Sister in Law Jill & Sharon
AND a BETTER surprise, Andy's brother, George, called him, asking where we were.  George & Jill were celebrating an anniversary and were in VA Beach, only a few miles from us!  Small world.  We hooked up and had a fun afternoon eating in downtown Norfolk and wandering around before they continued their drive home to Reston,VA.    So very good to see them again!

Sunday, October 25, 2009
Ugh.  Cold, rainy, dreary.  We spent the day being lazy and doing not much of anything given the ick weather.  We celebrated Andy's 70th birthday today - I made two of his favorite foods:  pasta & eggplant, combining them into a very tasty dish with lots of garlic that I roasted.  I made brownies, to pretend it was a cake.

His gift from me is a trip to Poland and Russia, given that where he was born, Grodno, is now in Russia as they stole the land in 1939, the year he was born.  He and his Mom were put on a train to Siberia by the Russians where they lived for several years doing slave type work in the coal mines.  Irena was a nurse by training so that kept her out of the mines.  At any rate, we shall depart in early May for about 3 weeks in search of relatives and roots.  We'll leave the boat in Jacksonville for the month while we head overseas.  A good day, in spite of the rain.