Sint Eustatius - ‘Statia‘ - The Golden Rock

Up at first light, we quickly made ready to pull out of St. Kitt's for the long day cruise to St. Martin....Not To Be.  Finally Fun’s starboard engine would not start.  When we smelled rubber burning, we figured OOPS.  Long story short, the bearings in a tension pulley on a belt on the engine had seized up and the pulley wasn’t turning.  Andy finally got a mechanic after he was unable to release the belt.  A couple of hundred dollars and many hours (mostly waiting for the mechanic) later, we pulled out of the Marina, headed a few hours away to Statia to break up the trip and get us out of St. Kitts. 

This bird pooped on the decks, window & dingy.  He kept aiming.

Our clearance paperwork had expired in the afternoon and we didn’t want to have to go back to check back INTO the country and then back OUT.  Besides that, weather is coming.  We certainly don’t want to be stuck in St. Kitts, one of our least favorite places....Shopper’s Mecca and not much else for us..

Sint Eustatius - 'Statia"

Arriving in Statia after a few hours of uneventful cruising with domestic debates still raging as to whether to continue on to Saba with an ETA arrival at dusk/dark or drop the hook at Statia, right in front of the Customs & Immigration dock...the only anchorage on the island.   We were nervous about staying in Statis as we were not planning to clear Customs/Immigration.  I hated to so flagrantly thumb my nose at them - we are so visible.   We were not going ashore & would  depart at first light for St. Martin, so we hoped technically we would be ‘legal’...but who knows.  No one can answer that question for us....clear in to spend the night only, never going ashore??? 

Coming into the anchorage - Saba in background

For you boaters following our blog, the guidebooks show the only safe anchorage at Oranje Baai and then only if settled weather.  The books/charts show actual anchoring by the breakwater, with moorings at the more northern end.  No - don’t drop the hook at the southern end in spite of what you read.  The dockmaster hailed us on the radio, requesting that we move to the northern end of the anchorage, saying we would be safer there.  The mooring balls are rated at only 30 tons & are $10 a night, part of the Park ‘fee’ when you check in.   We passed on the mooring option as we are 38 tons net weight and also because we didn’t plan to go ashore to pay.   

Statia

So many huge tankers & freighters

Ugh, not a place I’d recommend.  This anchorage is rolly - the breakwater isn’t long enough!  This island is also a fueling station for freighters and tankers right next to this only anchorage. 
 

Lights of all the tankers & freighters around us

I counted 12 huge ocean going vessels around us which kept  the area brightly lit all night long, reminding me of the Hudson River in NYC.

The radio continually sprang to life throughout the night long with bored tug boat captains and freighters chatting away. We don't dare turn the VHF off in case there is something we need to know or we need help quickly!

Dropping the hook, we were suddenly hailed by “Hello Big Boat”.  We saw nothing til we spotted two young (21ish) girls swimming by our bow.  One Canadian and one Brit, these interns at the Statia Natl Park for six months, were most curious about Finally Fun & thrilled to be invited aboard for a cold beer.  I laughed when they told us they swam out nearly every day in high hopes of having someone invite them aboard to take a ‘look see’.   The gals regaled us with stories of the island, almost making me want to stay to see some of the Park and hike up to the dead volcano for myself.  Almost, but not quite! 

Departing Statia at first light- See the volcano at the right side

This tiny volcanic island of Sint Eustatius or 'Statia' as locals call it,  is Dutch and about 30 miles from our destination of St. Martin. This island, once known as The Golden Rock, is a long way way now from its heyday in the 1700’s when it was the trade capital of the Caribbean.   While all the European countries were fighting each other (Statia changed hands 22 times between the English, Dutch and French) and putting up embargos, the more enlightened Dutch made Statia a free port.  International merchant ships thus ran zillions of goods such as silver, silks, sugar and guns through here.  As the political climate eased and wars subsided, this free port  became moot.  Statia fell on hard times, declining in population and popularity.  Today, it is off the beaten path with only about 3,400 inhabitants.  Both Dutch and English are, however, spoken here.

  

St. Kitts (St. Christopher) - Maybe there is something to Same Shit, Different Island

St. Kitts  January 11, 2012

Umm, I think I may be falling into that “Same Shit, Different Island” mentality of Andy’s.


St. Kitts is less than impressive to me.  My take away is that this island is just one big shopping area for the cruise ships that dock here.  

 Christopher Columbus didn’t stop here in 1492, but cruising past, named the island, “St. Christopher”.  

Brimstone Hill Fortress at the northern end of St. Kitts

The history of St. Kitts is much like the others, with raging battles for ownership, particularly between the French and the British.   

The Brimstone Hill Fortress known as the “Gibraltar of the West Indies”  rises 800’ feet above the coast and is the largest fort I recall seeing thus far.  Constructed over a 100 year period, beginning in about 1690 by the Brits, this fort sprawls over 40 acres, up and down and has 11 different areas.   Built of volcanic rock and local limestone & fortified with 49 huge cannons, the fort was considered impenetrable.  Not to be...in 1782 8,000 French attacked the fort, laying siege for over 30 days.  The 1,000 Brits fought the good battle til the French finally breached the walls.  The Brits surrendered but got the Island back a year later via the Treaty of Versailles.  The Brits finally abandoned the fort in 1852, believing Peace At Last.  Restoration began in 1965.  It's now a World Heritage Site, one of over 200 on St. Kitts alone!

Andy catching up on the history of St. Kitts while underway

In Basseterre, the capital & site of the original French settlement,   Port Zante Marina is about the best place to stay, particularly if weather conditions are not exactly perfect.  At 75 cents a foot and $15 for all the water you can use, we spent most of our first day there scrubbing Finally Fun top to bottom.   Ah, she looks good! 

National Museum

In two hours we’d seen the entire old town which is a mix of British and French architecture.  My take away is that St. Kitts is just a huge cruise ship destination with the obligatory ‘duty free’ shops absolutely everywhere.   

 

Love the music & dancing in the streets

 Playing tourist, wandering about both the cruise ship section and the old town,  we watched locals dance for the crowds.   The National Museum of St. Kitts is the entry way into the cruise ship area from the old town.    

I'd read about the English styled Picadilly Circus located in the center of the historic district.  Oops, way below my expectations....it's a clock in the middle of a roundabout.  Called Berkeley Memorial in honor of some old gent......bah.  My bubble popped....I was looking forward to I don't know what, but this didn't cut it.

This old tree witnessed much history

 Wandering through Independence Square, an attractive park just at the edge of town, we realized that this was built in 1790 for slave auctions and town hall type meetings.  The Park was renamed Independence Square in 1983 in recognition of the independence of St. Kitts & Nevis, (the sister island) from Great Britain.

Fountain in the middle of Independence Park

 The Catholic Church at the edge of the Park is undergoing renovation

Colorful Caribbean buildings abound

I wanted to see the little green monkeys, called Green or Vervet Monkeys that are so plentiful on this island.  These monkeys were brought over from Africa with French settlers & their slaves.  I got my wish, but not in the manner I'd wished.  Ugh.  Locals wander about with 2-3 monkeys (and they are tiny!) monkeys crawling all over them.  These locals will place the monkeys on the shoulders and head of an unsuspecting tourist (the monkeys are wearing Pampers sized for a premie).  Cameras snap away and THEN, that guy or a Partner in Crime, hits up all those who took photos for $10 US per photo!  I noticed several heated arguments between the tourists and these locals.   I did not dare to pull out my camera, never liking to feel ripped off, so I missed my photo opportunity!  These little monkeys are so very cute, however and really tiny!

Many dancers are children

Ah, the pirates!

 We passed on an island tour of any kind - feeling ‘been there/done that’.  We also skipped Nevis, the sister island to St. Kitts and only two miles away.  One more sugar plantation or rum factory & I will croak. 


Just maybe........Same Shit, Different Island mentality.....is working its way into my psyche.


At last count, however, we have dropped anchor in one way or another at 44 islands since leaving Florida in February 2011.  That is a LOT of islands!  Maybe I'm getting jaded and ready to be home again.....

Antigua: Historic English Harbor, Falmouth Harbor & St. John's

Antigua  January 4, 2012   

Coming into English Harbor

Crossing the Guadeloupe Channel in the Atlantic Ocean to Antigua was a delight on this sunny beautiful day after so much rain off and on for the past week.  Five hours later, bobbing up and down in easy 6 foot rolling seas, we arrived in English Harbor, which according to the guide book, was ‘the’ place to be and prettier than it’s neighbor, Falmouth Harbor. 

English Harbor with two small anchorages above the main harbor & Falmouth Harbor at north end of  photo

English Harbor Marina - Dockyard

Slowly making our way into the harbor, which has three separate anchoring areas, we found no room for Finally Fun anywhere.  A dingy from the marina came out to assist, telling us that we’d be better off in Falmouth Harbor, just around the corner.  

Ft. Berkely guarding entrance to English Harbor

Cruising slowly back out of this quaint and historic harbor that was first developed in 1742 by the Brits, we oogled the old fort and the old dockyard, relishing the time we would spend exploring all this.

Making our way into Falmouth Harbor, just around ‘the corner’ we found this anchorage fairly crowded also.  Remember it is ‘The Season’.  


The place is loaded with mega yachts, both power and sail.  Bill Gates' yacht is here and is certainly not the largest one!  Gates does, however, have a helicopter on his yacht, as do several others.  Must be nice....the crew spends all day, every day, washing those big boats!


What empty space is available is dominated by mooring balls.  







We finally gave up and in frustration grabbed the $20 US a night mooring.  These are the most expensive (aside from Mustique) that we’ve found in our travels in the Caribbean.   Hooking up quickly, we lowered the dingy & set off to find the dingy dock so we could walk 10 minutes back into English Harbor to clear customs and immigration before they closed.

Old gate into Nelson's Dockyard

Humm, seems expensive to check in here....$16 US + port charges of $3 per day $4 per person for entering the dockyard; $1 a day for garbage.  Nickel and dime you to death.  BUT we don’t have to pay at the gate for entering the dockyard each time, as the tourists on a bus or not on a boat do...

Ah, historic Nelsons Dockyard is a delight!  This natural harbor was a major player starting in about 1725, becoming England’s main naval base in the Caribbean.  It was fortified to fend off the pirates who wanted to steal the valuable sugar & other products being sent to Europe from these islands.  They also fought to fend off other countries who wanted to become the owner of the island, ie Ruler of the Land.

The round 'things' were used to careen boats on their sides, while in the water, to clean/repair the hull

The Harbor was (and still is) a natural hurricane hole and well laid out to be able to careen (lay on the side in order to clean and repair the hull)  the large ships.  With all this at hand, England could keep a large fleet of ships here, never having to go back to England for repairs - thus keeping a large fleet ready for anything.

Close up of the careening 'instrument'.  A fiddler sat on top while men pushed the poles round & round, twisting line tight to careen the ship onto its side at low tide so they could clean the hull & make repairs

We enjoyed wandering around this historic area that has been restored to much of its former glory.

The buildings and land are used today much like they were used hundreds of years ago, except that the boats worked on and docked here are modern yachts and not the sailing vessels of 300+ years ago.  

Now a hotel & restaurant with an inside courtyard

My favorite - the Courtyard inside which is now a hotel/restaurant

The old kitchen, now a working bakery.  These are cisterns.

Note the Rules!!!!  I think they were afraid of 'loose' women!

Model of HMS Victory, Admiral Nelson's battleship

Andy as Admiral Nelson

Signal Flags See what is spelled out in the message below

This is what the signal flags spelled out.  Thank God for modern communications!!!

Finally finding the trail, we hiked up to to Ft. Berkely Point overlooking the entrance to English Harbor, passing goats, lots of century plants and cactus.  Every island has a fort or forts.  (Remember all that history I've been talking about and all the fighting that went on for 200+ years!!)  One boater we met has a goal of visiting every single fort along her way.  Phew...

Wish I'd see goat on a menu.  What DO theydo with so many?

Peeking into English Harbor

Love the plant life

Caribbean Sea near English Harbor entrance

Ft. Berkley overlooking English Harbor

Powder House where ammunition was kept

Powder House entrance door

Ft. Berkley protecting English Harbor

British seal on every cannon on most islands

A hot hot killer walk in the sun....I thought the hike to the Dow Hill Interpretive Center was 15 minutes away from Falmouth Harbor.  NOT.


Five times that, up a long mountain road, we arrived, hot and sweaty, to find them nearly closing.  The staff felt sorry for us, ran the 15 minute movie about the history of the island AND then drove us in their car to the top (another hour hike, straight up), showing us the ruins of the officer’s quarters and the old cemetery along the way.  

View of the Atlantic side, up near Shirley Heights

Atlantic Side

At Dow Hill Interpretive Center

Cemetery 

One of 4 graves remaining intact

From Shirley Heights - English Harbor & Falmouth Harbor in background

See Finally Fun in Falmouth Harbor??

Steel drums @ Shirley Heights

Enjoying the view

Arriving at the top, at Shirley Heights, we watched the steel drum band play for two hours while we took in the view, the sunset and a cold drink. 






(The bands are just Thursday & Sunday nights for you cruisers following this blog behind us!) 


Luck of all luck, we hitched a ride back with a family from the UK with a big van!

God, the shoes?  Why??

The next day I got so excited  (Andy says I'm easy to please).  Catching a local bus (#17) from Falmouth Harbor to St. John’s and then transferring to another local bus (Woods) at the bus station (we are getting GOOD at figuring out the transportation systems!), we finally arrived at The Epicurean Grocery Store at Woods, a shopping mall. 

Pirates everywhere

Wow!  Haven’t seen a store like that in months and months, with so many choices and many of the goods from the USA.   


The disappointment came, however, when I realized I could only purchase what we could CARRY.  Bags loaded, backs bent, we made our way back via two crowded buses to Finally Fun.   Huh -- folks wonder what we do to stay busy....grocery shopping took about 5 hours. 

St. John's

Old churchs abound

Someone is a cool dude

 Before changing buses, we wandered through Redcliffe Quay, the old section of St. John’s.  Disappointing, as it is truly just a mega ‘quaint' shopping area for the cruise ships that come in daily in the winter months.    


The typical vendor stalls are here, loaded with t-shirts, shell jewelry & junk called island art.

Love the colorful buildings - St. John's

Redcliffe Quay

Redcliffe Quay Historic Building

Andy didn’t say NO forcefully enough.  Suddenly he found himself being escorted upstairs to a shop that had every single size T Shirt, in every color known to man AND every iron on patch available. 


There was no getting out of buying a t-shirt....his objections were overcome!   He quickly picked out his size, selected his color & iron on patch and in 1 minute had a new t-shirt & a lighter wallet.  


Heritage Quay, just 10 steps to the north, is another modern shopping mall - ‘duty free’ for the cruise ships.  Ugh, HATE all this!  We did, however, price a new camera for $450 US.  Back on Finally Fun, we looked it up & found it on Amazon for $250!   Shopper beware!!!! 

The guide books describe anchoring in St. John’s Harbor.  Oddly, we saw not ONE cruiser boat of any kind here in the two days we visited!  We saw no dingy dock or anything to make it attractive to a boater and were happy with our decision to stay on the mooring in Falmouth Harbor and take the bus to St. John’s!  We learned that some boaters will clear Customs/Immigration here & cruise on to Falmouth & English Harbor, thereby avoiding the fees...hummm... 

The same cactus as on Turks & Caicos - Turks were named after this one

Mega yachts cruised past us day and night in Falmouth Harbor

I missed a photo op!  Sitting in Mongoose Bar to cool off and get a cold drink, a local ordered a drink To Go beside me.  I wasn’t paying much attention, until I noticed he rode off, drink in hand, on a donkey!! Ah, love the local color!